Santa Claus
Lighted Outdoor Yard Decoration

The legend of Santa Claus can be traced back hundreds of years to a monk named St. Nicholas. St. Nicholas. It is believed that Nicholas was born sometime around 280 A.D. in Patara, near Myra in modern-day Turkey. Much admired for his piety and kindness, St. Nicholas became the subject of many legends. It is said that he gave away all of his inherited wealth and traveled the countryside helping the poor and sick. One of the best known of the St. Nicholas stories is that he saved three poor sisters from being sold into slavery or prostitution by their father by providing them with a dowry so that they could be married. Over the course of many years, Nicholas's popularity spread and he became known as the protector of children and sailors.

St. Nicholas made his first inroads into American popular culture towards the end of the 18th century. In December 1773, and again in 1774, a New York newspaper reported that groups of Dutch families had gathered to honor the anniversary of his death.

Who could ever forget A Christmas Carrol by Charles Dickens. Read it to your Children for those classic memories a person never forgets.

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The word costume is used to describe the different body types for the Santa Claus and the other yard decorations. The Santa Claus is constructed using the basic-pattern-1 and adding the facials features and hat desired.

This project is for intermediate or advanced crafts people. It requires some extra skill to add all the different colors and features.


Santa with Fireplace

Fabric color will be red. Suggested fabric would be a cotton polyester mix usually about $1.50 to 2.95 per yard. Double knit fabric is also good but make sure you can see light through it or it will not illuminate.

Fabric for face, remnant, usually 1/8 yard and miscellaneous colors for eyes mouth etc. The best fabric is the same as the body or felt can be used for eyes, mouth and nose…not for the face.

A piece of 8 to 10 gauge wire to fit the bottom and top of the costume, approximately 30 to 34 inches.

Five feet 1 inch PVC pipe,

One 3” toilet flange, one 3” to 1 ½ inch bushing and one 1 ½ to 1 inch bushing; all plumbing connections.

One male adapter, one female adapter, one “T” and three end caps all for the 1 inch PVC

One box 100 count outside mini lights.

Four metal tent stakes and four metal garden stakes.

FABRIC for Santa Claus:

Fabric comes in standard sizes…usually 45 inch width or 60 inch widths…some more some less but most 45 or 60.

The Santa requires major changes to the basic pattern. Trace your basic body pattern on a piece of paper and follow the direction below to create the remaining pattern.



First we will draw the basic pattern then we will cut apart the pieces, and add the seams.

Trace the basic pattern onto a piece of paper. Divide the body into three equal sections. Do not count the bottom hem when dividing.

Divide the center section in the middle and draw the line out past the basic body lines two inches on each side. Starting at the top of the one third line draw a rounded line to meet the middle section line and the back in to meet the bottom third line. Repeat on the other side; this is the belly.

From the bottom third line draw straight down to the bottom on the pattern. This eliminates the angled piece at the bottom creating “legs” for santa.


The face is an oval cut in half or a triangle with a very round point. Draw a line 6 inches long, make dot in the middle and draw a line 8 inches long forming a “T”. Draw a line from the top of the 8 inch length to the end of the 6 inch side, then to the other 6 inch side…a triangle. Round the tip of the triangle forming the chin. Use the top of a lid as a form if necessary.

Draw a line down the center of the body. Then mark 2 inches on each side of the line. From the bottom draw a line on the 2 inch marks on either side of the center stopping at the face. This is the white fur up the center of Santa’s coat.

From the bottom one third line mark a line four inches up and draw across the bottom. This is the fur at the bottom of the coat. One the bottom line mark a point 2 inches out from the center. From the center line draw a curved line to meet that 2 inch mark. This the rounded tails on the jacket in the front. Refer to the picture.

Mark 2 inches on each side of the middle line that was made to extend the middle section of the belly. Draw a line connecting those marks creating a 4 inch width across the belly. This is Santa’s belt

From the side of the body pattern by the face draw a curved line approximately 4 inches wide to meet the center ruff. This is the collar.

All the pattern pieces are in front of you.

Cut off the legs at that bottom third line. Trace onto to another piece of paper. Add the ½ or 5/8 seam allowances except add 1 inch to the top (the place where you cut the legs off.)

Trace the top half on another piece of paper. Add the seam allowances making sure to add 1 inch to the bottom and 1 inch to the top. This is the body pattern.

Trace the top of the head from the top of the collar to the bottom of the collar. Mark where the collar goes off the edge. Remove the pattern and draw a straight line across the paper meeting the two line marked on each side of the pattern. This is the collar on the other three body pieces. Cut out.

Now cut this top body piece apart and you have the middle ruff, bottom ruff, collar, face and belt. Discard all other pieces. These pieces do not need seam allowances.

Draw a 5 inch by 5 inch square and inside the square draw and square “c”. Draw the square C about one inch wide. Cut out the square C and you have the belt buckle.

Legs are cut out of black fabric (four) Body pieces (four) are cut out of red fabric) Ruff pieces are cut out of white fabric.(1 each) Back ruff pieces (cut 3) Face is cut out of flesh fabric. (one) Buckle is cut out of yellow or gold fabric (one)



Cut strips 2 inches wide out of the fabric remnants left ( after cutting out body) into long strips. Turn and press ½ on each long side. These are going to be used as pockets for the body wires. These pockets will help hold the shape of the Santa.


To make the hat follow the direction for the witch hat “MAKING IT FLOP” Cut two out of red fabric. Trace the bottom the hat on another piece of paper. Mark a four inch strip one inch up at the bottom of the hat. Cut out, don’t include the one inch seam. This is the white ruff for the hat


On two pieces of the leg fabric mark a center line and sew a double large zig zag down the center or use a piece of trim and sew a small white line down the center of the legs. One of these is the front legs and of these is the back legs.

Now make the facial features. Illustrations and diagrams are available by purchasing the Santa instructions available in SHOP My Santa has crescent shaped eyes an “O” for the mouth and a button nose. Pick the facial expression you like and draw them on paper. Then cut out your patterns in the colors or fabric you have chosen.

Divide your face in half vertically and horizontally, make finger press creases so you will be able to see the lines. Place the eyes just above center the nose in the middle and the mouth centered under that. If you are going to have a protruding nose, set aside. Sew with a close zig sag stitch around each piece. Or if you want you can glue each in place or use paper back fusible interfacing. It is important not to let the fabric you have chosen fray too much. Zig zag around twice if you feel the fabric has frayed away from the sewing or if the fabric is a loose weave type. REMEMBER; these will be outside in the wind and rain. Nothing destroys your work faster than a bad wind storm if you have not secured every nook and cranny down well.



A button nose is made out of a round piece of contrasting fabric, I used rosy pink color. A circle about 3 inches in diameter will make a nice size nose. Baste around the edges of the circle and pull basting together to gather up. Before pulling to tight stuff with plastic….not cloth or stuffing…then sew together and sew on face.

Now put the top edge of the face on the top edge of one of the four body sections. The top of the face should be slightly smaller than the top edge of the body pattern. The face should not go over into the seam allowances. Pin in place and zig zag again around the face (or glue and let dry). Do NOT use fusible webbing to secure the entire face. Then turn your fabric to the wrong side and cut away the fabric 1/8 inch from the zig zag or glue that is behind the face. Zig Zag on the wrong side again or glue edges down securely. This creates a face that will illuminate when lit.

At this point you can apply white yarn for the beard or wait until the costume is finished so it won’t get caught in the sewing. Just place the yarn so it goes in a half circle starting at the “jaw” line around to the other jaw line. Then repeat bring yarn in a little to form a crescent shape. It should taper up toward the ears and get fuller by the mouth. Then add yarn around the edge of the cap for hair in the back. Don’t forget the fluffy eyebrows.


Place the front, bottom and collar ruff on the front of the body. Zig zag securely in place. Place the belt on the body and zig zag in place. Place the belt buckle in the center of the body and zig zag in place.

Sew white collar ruff on remaining three pieces.

On the wrong side of all four body pieces

Draw a mark on the top one third line and on the middle line on all four body pieces. Using the top one third line, the middle line, measure each strip across each line and cut to length. Turn each end piece toward wrong side, press and sew end down. Then pin each piece back down to body piece centering the pocket on the line you drew.

If you are not good at judging about a ½ up from the line on the fabric then draw another line ½ inch up from the line and place the edge of the strip on that line. On the face the nose has to be place in the center so only add two short strips to each side.

With right side together sew all four legs together. Sew a center line piece with tow plain pieces on each side and then the other center lien piece to that. Remember the sew line on the legs and front and back legs with plain legs on the side.

With right side together sew all four body pieces together.

Making sure you put the legs together matching the front sew legs onto costume match seams. Remember you need a 1 inch seam. Then zig zag the edge of that seam together making pocket for the wire leaving 3 inches open in the back.

Turn bottom of this body up ½ inch and press with iron. Then turn the edge up 1 inch again and press and sew. Leave about 3 inches open (don’t sew) in the middle of the back piece. This makes a pocket for the wire that will hold the form of your body.

TABS FOR THE BOTTOM OF THE SANTA COSTUME Draw a 2 inch by 5 inch rectangle and cut out 4 pieces of body fabric. These will be your tabs to secure the costume to the ground.

Fold the long ends of your tabs to meet at the middle and press, then fold in half and press. Sew together.

Fold each tab in half and place on the inside or wrong side of costume at each seam. Sew on top of the stitching and sew securely in place. I sew across this 3 to four times to make sure it will stay. These will take a lot of abuse outside, so if you want your costume to last, make it secure. Take care not to sew the pocket closed

The hat is the “flopped” hat for the witch. SEE FLOPPED HAT cut two

This flopped out type of hat is used for the ghosts, Mrs snowman and Santa.

Sew white ruff on both sides of the hat one inch up from the bottom.

With wrong side of fabric together, pin and sew then zig zag the seam edges.

Divide the hat in four pieces by placing pins at the four sections. Then match the hat section with wrong side together on the body of the Santa matching hat divisions with the seams.

The “flopped tip” needs to be placed on the side of the Santa. Take care not to sew the “flop” pointing to the front of the Santa but to the side of the Santa.

Sew the 1 inch seam. Then zig zag the edge of that seam together making pocket for the wire leaving 3 inches opening in the back


Adding the wire for the shape in the last step for making the costume.

Turn the body of the costume wrong side out exposing the smallest bulge at the top. Insert a piece to wire in the pocket working it around until it meets its self and the body is filled out. Overlap the wire by 2 inches on each side. Cut. With duck tape the same color as your body wrap from 2 inch ends that overlap making sure you cover the cut ends of the wire.

Repeat this on each bulge and at the bottom of the costume. At the bottom close the pocket openings by slip stitching or on the machine.

All this is left is THE STAND for Santa

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